Sunday, 12th September …..

I am writing this on a Cebu Pacific jet flying us to Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan. We could just as easily be on a Jetstar A320 except for the traditional game played by the passengers. The stewardess asked for an item, and the first person to hold it up won a prize (it was a little yellow drawstring bag). She called for a Sick Bag and a belt, but the best item called for was a picture of Kit Aquino’s father and, remarkably, somebody had one. I might have the names a little wrong here but I do know that Benito Aquino (P’Noy) is the new President of the Philippines so it must have something to do with him.

We are traveling light with just carry-on luggage each. Mine was a little heavy so the girl at the desk asked me to take out 2 Kg. I transferred those bits and pieces to my backpack and got the tick of approval. I’m not sure how that helped reduce the weight on the plane.

We were amazed at the amount of stuff the locals were intending to carry on board. Everyone seemed to have a double pack of Krispy Kreme Donuts. The check-in chick asked if we would put our little suitcases in the hold. I think she was anticipating the fight for locker space and was trying to make it as easy as possible.

Oops, I have to close up the computer as we are coming in to land.

Back again. We arrived 18 minutes early, collected our bags and met our tour guide who dropped us off to our pension. Very Filipino! We were told that we would be picked up at 6.30 to see the fireflies. No other information. Marilyn asked whether we should have dinner first. ‘Yes, ma’am. Have dinner, then we go to see the fireflies.’

Bit of a rush and not a particularly palatable meal but we were waiting ready and on-time. I should say the firefly tour was a late addition. The tour package was based on arriving in Puerta Princesa on a morning flight, and included a cruise around Honda Bay in the afternoon. Because we are allergic to early starts, we took the afternoon flight and missed the cruise. As a replacement, we were offered fireflies.

We were joined by a young Filipino couple from Manila who were staying at our pension, and three others from another hotel. First stop was to a local restaurant where we were served with an enormous meal, apparently included in the package price. Certainly, a lack of communication. We had already eaten, of course; however, we do our best and off we go, not knowing what to expect.

On the way, we passed the Wide River Prison, known as the Prison without Bars. Locals claim it is the largest prison of its type in the world. Apparently, some the prisoners have their families living there, and are able to continue to earn a living by making handicrafts and selling them to visitors. I don’t know much more about it and will have to do some research.

Eventually, we arrived at the Mangrove Eco-Centre, which was set up to preserve the mangroves. The Firefly Tour was one of the money-making activities which keep the place running. We were given lifejackets and a funny hat and loaded into a little wooden boat with outriggers, paddled by a young volunteer who was very knowledgeable about the river, the mangroves, the fireflies which live in the mangroves and the stars.

It was a magical night. Absolutely calm on the river, no engine noises and just the slop of the paddle. When the paddler switched on a red light, the trees lit up with fireflies. The sky was brighter than I have ever seen, and we saw Saturn and Antares and 10 million other stars. We were very late getting back so we fell into bed.

This is Antony, our paddler.

The Firefly Tour is a world class tourism activity, but almost unknown outside the local area. The Philippines certainly has a great deal to offer.