It turned out to be another big day today. We were on the road by 8.30 with our usual breakfast at Vie de France. We caught the Thunderbird to Kyoto just because we could. Normal people usually catch the local train but our Rail Pass gives us the option of going upmarket. We have a soft spot for the Thunderbird because it goes to Kanazawa where Gib Gate’s sister-school is situated and we’ve been there a few times on the train.
From Kyoto, we headed off to Arashiyama which is really just an outlying suburb. Many years ago, it was the home of many temples, shrines and monasteries looking for solitude but gradually the city has encroached and it’s becoming a busy tourist attraction. There were several other foreigners on the train this morning. Most of them got off at Saga-Arashiyama but we stayed on to the next station because we had a plan. From Kameoka, we might have taken a boat ride down the river which sounded like fun until we realized we would be expected to sit Japanese-style on the floor of the boat. Nope, move to Plan B.
Again from Kameoka, there’s a quaint little train called the Romantic Train which follows the river back down to Saga-Arashiyama so we opted for that. We had about 30 minutes to wait at the station which had an extraordinary display of lucky bears, and hordes of people were arriving including a gang of school-kids with their teachers. I was astounded when a school-girl came over and asked me to be in a photograph with some of her friends. Marilyn wouldn’t come so I had to do it on my own. To make matters worse, my camera battery went flat so I have no record of this event.
It was still quite early so we caught the train back to Kyoto and jumped on a bus to the Gingakuji Temple which is the start of the Philosophers’ Walk. Reinforced by an icecream, we started the walk. My memory of doing the walk previously is obviously flawed or there have been some changes made. I suspect, for example, that the path has been narrowed to allow more room for vehicles on the adjoining road. If so, it’s a travesty that a significant piece of national heritage has been damaged. As well, we were amazed at the number of cats we saw at one point, apparently being fed by a passer-by.
When we finished, we found another bus heading back to the station. However, we noticed that it was passing Gion so we got off there because this is the best place in Kyoto to see a geisha. Nowadays, it is more likely that you will see a maiko or apprentice. We saw several ladies in traditional kimonos but I’m not sure they were really geishas.
From Kyoto, we headed off to Arashiyama which is really just an outlying suburb. Many years ago, it was the home of many temples, shrines and monasteries looking for solitude but gradually the city has encroached and it’s becoming a busy tourist attraction. There were several other foreigners on the train this morning. Most of them got off at Saga-Arashiyama but we stayed on to the next station because we had a plan. From Kameoka, we might have taken a boat ride down the river which sounded like fun until we realized we would be expected to sit Japanese-style on the floor of the boat. Nope, move to Plan B.
Again from Kameoka, there’s a quaint little train called the Romantic Train which follows the river back down to Saga-Arashiyama so we opted for that. We had about 30 minutes to wait at the station which had an extraordinary display of lucky bears, and hordes of people were arriving including a gang of school-kids with their teachers. I was astounded when a school-girl came over and asked me to be in a photograph with some of her friends. Marilyn wouldn’t come so I had to do it on my own. To make matters worse, my camera battery went flat so I have no record of this event.
The train was fun and included a very odd mascot and a conductor who attempted to sing. The scenery was wonderful and we often caught sight of the boats below us with their passengers getting wet knees. At the station, there was a piano and railway museum which included a pipe organ which played magically by itself, the biggest grand piano I have ever seen and three gigantic locomotives. In the town we found a better-than- average café where we had a lunch set: vegetable soup, a little dollop of potato salad and prosciutto, and a terrific spaghetti served with a soft roll and a slice of green bread. We couldn’t ask for anything more.
It was still quite early so we caught the train back to Kyoto and jumped on a bus to the Gingakuji Temple which is the start of the Philosophers’ Walk. Reinforced by an icecream, we started the walk. My memory of doing the walk previously is obviously flawed or there have been some changes made. I suspect, for example, that the path has been narrowed to allow more room for vehicles on the adjoining road. If so, it’s a travesty that a significant piece of national heritage has been damaged. As well, we were amazed at the number of cats we saw at one point, apparently being fed by a passer-by. When we finished, we found another bus heading back to the station. However, we noticed that it was passing Gion so we got off there because this is the best place in Kyoto to see a geisha. Nowadays, it is more likely that you will see a maiko or apprentice. We saw several ladies in traditional kimonos but I’m not sure they were really geishas.
We were really intent on seeing Pontocho which is an extraordinary little street lined on both sides by restaurants. It must be a couple of hundred metres long but only 2 metres wide, and beautifully restored. One thing we notice in Asian cities: no matter how beautiful the surroundings, there’s often a distinct odour from the drains.
Anyway, we finally got to Kyoto Station, found an appropriate train back to Osaka and were back in our hotel room by 7 o’clock. Marilyn has told me that the first priority tomorrow is to do some washing but we might think of something exciting to do in the afternoon.
Enjoying your travel stories
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